On an expense account
Manré occupies a huge amount of space atop the MGF mall. Half of it is a spacious bar in white, with booths, an island bar-counter and flat screens everywhere. Adjacent to that is a terrace, which is not yet open, but slated to be a casual café. Another terrace, flanking the fine-dining room on the other side, will be an Indo-Arabic-themed open area with white tents, satiny cushions and finger food.
We were here on business however, so we sat down in their opulent fine-dining area. It feels a bit like a highly-polished version of the castle in Jean Cocteau’s Beauty and the Beast, with gilded mirrors, ornate embellishments, black crystal chandeliers, draped private dining rooms and a slightly dark, gothic vibe. We half expected a pair of disembodied gloved hands to pour us water.
The service was rather more personal than that, though. Our waiter was quite helpful in narrowing down choices from the vaguely European menu, even suggesting we order his “personal favourite” dish.
We started with a couple of toothsome, and very pretty, appetisers. The Thai soufflé with lemongrass, galangal, ginger and kaffir lime was served with a bit of red coconut curry sauce (Rs 475). Light, fluffy and just browned, the soufflé was perfectly cooked, but needed the curry for flavour despite its exotic ingredients. The goat cheese timbale was nicely presented, with pesto-filled layers of aubergine, courgette, sun-dried tomato and goat cheese making up a tower, which the waiters obligingly cut up to serve (Rs 500). Our pick of the appetisers were the herb and saffron gnocchi in a smoked scaramoza sauce and artichoke barigoule. The gnocchi were served in bite-sized morsels, flavourful without fuss, with the gentle warmth of saffron in the sauce (Rs 500).
A prosciutto and gorgonzola salad was less exceptional (Rs 525). The ingredients – figs, Romaine lettuce, walnuts and honey vinaigrette were all fresh, but the whole lacked that certain something that would justify its price. Our main of roasted pancetta-wrapped medallions of pork, served with a pineapple and ginger marmalade was perfect: juicy and meaty in all the right ways, and served atop potato roesti, with harissa and pine-nut stuffing in a port wine reduction (Rs 1,250). The hearty corn-fed breast of chicken with brie was served on a tasty radish and black olive polenta with caramelised shallots and a
Madeira glaze. This portion was a bit too much for one person. The penne diablo was just the right amount, and surprisingly tasty for a simple pasta dish (Rs 750).
The highlight of our meal, however, was the dessert. A rich chocolate torte arrived in a pool of melted chocolate. The richness of this was cooled by a scoop of Manré’s home-made star anise ice cream and we scraped the generous portion down to the plate (Rs 425). The less sinful-seeming Valrhona chocolate delice was moulded mousse-like chocolate, served with the perfect foil of a mixed berry coulis. The poached pears were simpler and less indulgent, again served with a scoop of home-made champagne sorbet and a drizzled vanilla sauce (Rs 385).
We had one complaint though: the tables are uncomfortably high, suited more to a big Beast than the high-heeled beauties currently feeding here. Otherwise, while expensive, the food is good. There is a way out if you want to save some money, of course. There’s no reason not to go for a glass of wine (the list wasn’t in place when we visited, but promises to be good), a couple of appetisers and a dessert. And the view. Sonal Shah
MGF Metropolitan Mall, fourth floor, A Wing, Saket (4066-8888). All major credit cards accepted. Alcohol served. Daily noon-3pm; 8am-1am. Meal for two Rs 6,000. |
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